Trancoso, Brazil

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Harper’s Bazzar July 2009

The original hippie hangout - so laid - back you can almost hear the fish blowing bubbles - this traditional fishing town in southern Bahia ia a key stopover on the supermodels seasonal global party circuit. Attracted by the stunning beaches, authentic Latino vibe and friendliness of the locals, trendsetting Euros have concerted many of the old fishermen’s houses into private homes or guesthouses around a central quadrado(square). Horses are the main form of transport, shops open at 4pm and flares and candles take the place of the street lighting at night. But when the partygoers take their leave, post New Year’s Eve, the place reverts to the sleepy, charming backwater it always has been, where English is neither understood nor spoken, and siestas are the order of the day.
TALKING POINT Etnia Pousada cosmopolitan, understated and very cool, this is one lovely retreat. The other hip hideaway on everyone’s lips is Uxua Casa (pronounced ooshua, Diesel creative director Wilbert Das’ new hotel creation, which opened this year. Made up of nine fabulous villas built around the quadrado, with a gem-enerusted swimming pool and a bar, it is situated in one of the Brazil’s most beautiful beaches. Here a Dj spins tunes from an abandoned boat beside shaded lounge areas, while locals play volleyball with visiting urban ‘tribes’ or practise capoeira, the dance/art from originally brought over by slaves from Africa, on platform on the sand.